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pail·lette  (pä-yt, p-, p-lt)
n.
1. A small piece of metal or foil used in painting with enamel.
2. A spangle used to ornament a dress or costume.
[French, from Old French, diminutive of paille, straw; see paillasse.]
I learned the french term for sequin, paillette, in the spring of 2010 when everyone in Paris, including my teenage host-sister, was in awe over the sequin-strapped Vanessa Bruno totes.

Add Karl Lagerfeld to the list of designers who incorporated the glimmering embellishments to their fall collection of otherwise dark and tailored collections.



This fall collection was more than a mild shift away from his monochromatic palette; the strict black and whites of previous collections remain, but fall welcomed in shades of navy and purple along with a shocking fuchsia. Perhaps old dogs really can learn new tricks.
The show began, as usual, with various tweed suit ensembles, paying homage, however mundane as they appeared, to the original suit which serves as the foundation of the entire empire of the House of Chanel. I was underwhelmed by the beginning of the show: uninspired bland boxy tweed suits of muted colors. In due time, the ensembles slowly morphed into beautiful suits with nipped waists and bracelet length sleeves, dotted with ombre sequins and beaded patterns. Fear not, fashionistas, sparkles will remain once the leaves have turned!





Flashy accessories are cast aside in favor of beads, sequins and bejeweled embellishments (note the large buttons and dramatic collars.) Any flash or extravagance of his choices are balanced out by both his choice of silhouettes and color scheme. Knee-length skirts gain coverage from sheer knee-high boots, while coats and dresses skim the floor.


Per usual, the styling is impeccable. Chanel accessories have been a mainstay in the fashion world since Coco made costume jewelry and respected field. Once again we see sheer textures in his lace eye-coverings and sheering knee-high boots. The house of Chanel has set a standard for designers in terms of styling an accessories: the two-tone tights of F/W '08/'09 launched a  trend that trickled all the way down to retailers including Urban Outfitters.

Rather angular side swept bangs peek out from hats and caps, reflecting the classic lines that dominate the collection.
As predicted, floor length silhouettes of  the "maxi-dress" trend will remain, echoing a sentiment of function over fashion once temperatures drop, however Lagerfeld's use of volume and peoplum-style skirts lend intrigue to an otherwise boring style.


At left, my favorite look  from the collection: a mix of sheer and opaque textures maintain a classic and tasteful air, thanks to the high neck of the bodice, and padded hips. In fact, the extreme volume of the two bands in striped material remind me of wings, chic nonethless.








bisous,



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As a History/Art History major I've spent a fair time studying the artistic movements in Europe. With a  two-hour commute I've started getting in the habit of choosing similarly themed books that can get me through the boring and sometimes cramped bus rides home, so I found it ironic that my most recent choice is now the subject of Paris's latest event: Le XVIIeme au Gout du Jour.

As I'm starting to delve into Antonia Fraser's length biography, Marie Antoinette: the Journey, news out of Versailles is plastered across the screen of the homepage of Vogue.fr.

To the left are the staples of a working woman in textiles: caffeine, sunnies and 600-page biography to keep me occupied.


French Vogue has partnered with the Palais de Versailles to open an exhibition featuring the influence of the palace's most notorious royal inhabitant: Marie Antoinette on modern fashion. The  month long-exhibition will feature rococo style garments from the most well-respected designers of the 20th century. 

The exhibition will follow the influence of the Age of Enlightenment on the world of contemporary fashion. Held in the Grand Trianon, Louis XIV's hideaway for mistresses, visitors may visit the ornately decorated rooms while admiring the designers which have drawn so much design inspiration from the decor.







vistez le site francaise! : http://www.vogue.fr/vogue-a-versailles
francophone readers may download the guide here. 





toutes des images, courtesy of www.vogue.fr



bisous,
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During my current time working in museum conservation, I spent a considerable amount of time researching the physical deterioration of textiles and most recently, plastics. Out of Chemical and Engineering News is a story centered around polymer artifacts from the 1970s onward. "Preserving Plastic Art" follows both the practical and artistic uses of polymers in installations as well as consumer products. As conservators begin to work with plastics in museum settings, the chemical degradation of these materials is becoming a hazard.



Of many problems includes one I have faced in the lab this summer: cellulose acetate degradation among early 20th century ballgowns. This problem isn't confined to artifacts considered a century old--artists Madeleine Berkhemer is included in the piece, as she struggles with the short life-span of sculptures made of nylon and spandex.


I love Madeline's work and have included some photos of her sculptures--as well as some sketches. Her use of color is so creative and aesthetically pleasing. Her sculptures mix geometric shapes with color schemes to produce lively and enjoyable installations.

Diamond 1
Ruby oval cut II
Pin Up 1
Study for Ghibli'Palais Thum & Taxis





Most recently she has collaborated on a project with the notorious fashion house of Christian Louboutin. 




trademark red soles peek out from under a fuschia top. 




Her self-titled website consists of her online portfolio as well as articles of her upcoming exhibits. I encourage you to spend some time browsing amongst the large collection of works, but to my non-francophone friends I warn you that l'ecole des carresses translates roughly to "school of touches." You've been warned.




bisous,

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"Maybe there is nothing, ever, that can equal the recollection of having been young together."
 -Michael Cunningham, The Hours
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